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Монголчууд 200 гаруй нэр төрлийн захтай дээл өмсч байжээ

Монгол түмний уламжлалт сар шинийн баярын гангараа ямар байх талаар “Монгол костюмс” төвийн музейн тайлбарлагч, судлаач, багш Г.Дамдиндуламаас асууж сонирхлоо.
-Цагаан сар мөдхөн болох нь. Дээл хувцасны захиалга аль хэдийн эхэлсэн байх.“Монгол костюмс” төв хэр ачаалалтай ажиллаж байна вэ?
-Манай төв 15 жил үйл ажиллагаа явуулж байна. Бид жил бүр сар шинийн баяр гэлтгүй байнгын захиалагч, үйлчлүүлэгчтэй болсон. Энэ жил уламжлал ёсоор цагаан сарын үзэсгэлэн худалдаагаа нээсэн. Хүмүүс хувцас захиалахаас гадна бэлэн дээл хувцаснуудаас худалдан авч байна. Захиалгаа бид энэ сарын 20-ноос хаасан. Жил бүр манай төв хүүхэд залуусын хэрэглээнд тохирсон дээл урлаж худалддаг. Энэ жил хэрэглээнд дөхөм болгох үүднээс, эрэгтэй дээлээ халаастай болгосон. Энэ нь заавал өврөө ухаад байлгүйгээр, халаасандаа утас, хөөргөө хийх боломжтой болгосон гэсэн үг. Дээр үед хүмүүс мөнгө төгрөгөө өвөртөө, хөөргөө бүсэндээ хавчуулдаг байсан.


-Ер нь 2019 оны сар шинийн дээлний загвар ямар байх хандлагатай байна вэ?

-Энгийн сайхан монгол дээлийг илүүтэй сонгож, худалдан авч байна. Нэг үе загвар хөөж, загварын дээл гоё гэдэг байсан бол үндэсний хувцас бие хаасан, энгэр захаа бүрэн товчилсон дээл төв сайхан харагдана гэдгийг хүүхэд, залуус мэдэрснийх юм болов уу даа. Мөн хэтэрхий их загвар хөөсөн, ялангуяа эмэгтэй дээлний энгэрийнх нь ухлаадас том, эсвэл хэт богино бол сар шинийн баяраар нийцтэй харагддаггүй л дээ. Хөгшчүүддээ золгон, амар мэндийг нь мэддэг, ах дүү нартайгаа уулздаг сайхан баяр учраас энгэр захтай, ханцуйтай дээл өмсвөл илүү зохимжтой. Энэ баяр бол ах дүү, төрөл төрөгсөд, ураг садангаараа уулздаг, улс орон өвлийг өнтэй давсны баяр учраас үндэсний хувцсаараа гоёх нь мэдээж зөв юм.
-Монгол үндэсний хувцсыг өнгөний бэлгэдэл шингээн урладаг. Тэгвэл өнөө жил ямар өнгийн дээл захиалга ихтэй байна вэ?
-Энэ жилийнх нь өнгө юм болов уу, хүмүүс хар өнгийн дээл захиалж байна. Мөн хар хөх, эсвэл гал шар, улбар шар өнгийн дээл ч захиалах нь элбэг байна. Манай монголчуудад үндсэн өнгө бий. Төв халхад эмэгтэйчүүд улаан, цэнхэр, ойрад баруун аймгийн эрэгтэйчүүл цагаан, цайвар өнгийн дээлийг их өмсдөг. Хүний сэтгэлийн сайхныг харуулахаас гадна, сүүний бэлгэдэлтэй учраас цайвар өнгийг ихээхэн эрхэмлэдэг л дээ. Тиймээс үндэсний хувцсанд өнгө үнэхээр чухал. Манай монголчууд Азийн орнууд шиг завсрын өнгийг хэрэглэдэггүй байсан. Уламжлалаараа үндсэн таван өнгийг маш сайхан хослуулж өмсдөг байсан нь манай хувцасны нэг онцлог. Судлаачид ч тэгж үздэг. Ойрын хэдэн жил нийгмийн хөгжлийг дагаад, суурин амьдралдаа зохицон, завсрын өнгийн дээл өмсөх эсвэл эмжээрийг өнгө дагуулж хийх хандлагатай болжээ.
-Ер нь, монголчууд торгон дээлээр гоёх дуртай. Энэ хандлага өнөө жил ямар байна вэ?
-Хүмүүс торгон дээлээ сонирхдог нь хэвээр байна. Хамгийн сайхан өнгөтэй, хамгийн гоё харагдах торго байна уу гэж их асууж байна. Сүүлийн үед нийгмийн хөгжил нь өөр болж, хүмүүсийн амьдралын түвшин ч янз бүр байна. Хэзээнээсээ манай ард түмэн амны хишигтэй. Тиймээс хүн бүр л сайхан дээл өмсөхийг зорьж байна. Торгон дээл моодноос шахагдана гэж бараг байхгүй байх аа.
-Охид бүсгүйчүүд дээлтэйгээ хослох ээмэг зүүлтэд нэлээд анхаардаг. Ер нь ээмэг зүүсгэлээ хэрхэн тохируулж ирсэн уламжлалтай вэ?
-Манайхан дээр үеэсээ эмэгтэйчүүдэд гоёл зүүсгэлийн талаар хэмжээ тогтоож байсан үе бий. Эмэгтэй хүнд хэт их олон цэнгийн алт хүндэддэг, нас буян хишигт нь цөв ордог гэдэг. Ерөнхийдөө эмэгтэйчүүдэд гурван цэнгийн ээмэг бөгж, эрэгтэй хүнд таван цэнгийн бөгж зүүх нь тохиромжтой гэж алтан эдлэлд хэмжээ тогтоож байсан юм билээ. Харин мөнгө, бусад гоёл зүүлтэд хэмжээ тогтоож байгаагүй. Өөртөө байгаа сайхан гоёл зүүсгэлээ баяр ёслолоороо гаргаж хэрэглэдэг. Гэхдээ сааль сүүнд бузар орохоос сэргийлж мөнгөн бөгж зүүдэг уламжлалтай. Сүүлийн үед дээлтэйгээ зохицох толгойн чимэглэл, урт унжуургатай ээмэг зүүх сонирхолтой эмэгтэйчүүд олон болжээ.

-Монголчууд мандах төрийн малгай, дэвжих төрийн дээл, бүтэх төрийн бүс, тулах төрийн гутал гэж ярьдаг. Цагаан сараар үндэсний хувцсаа хэрхэн тохируулж өмсөх ёс уламжлалын тухайд та зөвлөнө үү?
-Манай монгол үндэсний хувцас цогц байж сайхан харагддаг. Малгайгаа эрхэмлэн дээдлэх ёстой, малгай хүнийг төлөөлдөг түүхтэй. Монгол дээл өмссөн эрэгтэй хүн малгайгүй байвал зохисгүй. Тиймээс шляп малгай өмсөж болно, харин саравчтай малгай зохимжгүй. Сайхан лоовууз хийлгээд өмсвөл хэзээ ч, хаана ч сайхан харагдана. Мөн залуучууд жанжин малгай, дөрвөн талтай малгай өмсөж болно. Дээр үед хүрээний гангачуул доёртой /сүүлтэй/ тоорцог өмсч байсан юм билээ. Хүүхнүүд дугуй малгайг дээл, насандаа зохицуулан өмсч байсан. Нэг үе мөнгөн тоногтой бүс их хэрэглэж байсан бол сүүлийн үед дурдан бүсийг өргөн сонгож байна. Бүс нь хүнийг эмх цэгцтэй, төвшин сайхан харагдуулдаг. Мөн хүний биеийн дулааныг хадгалдаг, энергийг тэнцвэржүүлдэг. Гуталны хувьд суурин, нийслэлд амьдарч байгаа улсууд түрийтэй гутлаа өмсөнө. Хэрвээ монгол гутал өмсвөл дээлэндээ сайхан зохицно. Хантааз, хүрэмний хувьд дээлэн дээр сайхан зохино. Хүрэм дулаан харагдуулахаас гадна гоёл болох сайхан хувцас. Хөдөө орон нутагт мал аж ахуйгаа эрхэлж буй улсууд, төрийн алба хашиж буй албаныхан ч сайхан хантаазтай дээлээ өмсдөг болжээ.
-Дээлний үнэ ханш өмнөх жилүүдтэй харьцуулбал ямар байгаа вэ?
-Манай төв олон жил үйл ажиллагаа явуулахдаа үнэ ханшаа тогтвортой барьдаг. Энэ жил өмнөх жилүүдийн жишгээр худалдааны дээлээ 10 хувь хямдруулсан. Захиалгын хувьд, материалаасаа хамаарч янз бүрийн үнэтэй байгаа. Дэлгүүрт байгаа хувцаснаас энэтхэг, солонгос даавуун эрэгтэй дээл хамгийн доод тал нь 380 мянга. Харин эмэгтэй дээлний хувьд хятад торгон дээл 280 мянга, энэтхэг торгон дээл 340-395 мянга, индонез торгоор хийсэн нимгэн, хөнгөн материалтай дээл 395-420 мянган төгрөгийн үнэтэй байна. Индонез торгоор хийсэн дээлийг 450-500 мянга, энэтхэг торгоор хийсэн дээлийг 450 мянган төгрөгөөр захиалж болно. Мөн манайд япон, испани, араб торго бий. Араб торго үнэтэй тул дээл нь мөн үнэтэй байдаг. Гэхдээ манайх ижил төстэй үйл ажиллагаа явуулдаг бусад салоныг бодвол, харьцангуй хямд байгаа. Тухайлбал, Япон кимоно хийдэг материалаар оёсон дээл 750 мянган төгрөгийн үнэтэй байхад гадуур сая гаруй төгрөг байна гэж дуулдсан. Мөн манай төвийн хүүхдийн трэнд болсон ноён дээл нас насны хэмжээнээс хамаарч 285-400 мянган төгрөгийн үнэтэй байгаа.

-Орчин цагт загварын хэв маяг, тэр тусмаа үндэсний хувцасны загвар хүртэл өөрчлөгдөх хандлагатай болсон. Дээлийг ханцуйтай, ханцуйгүй гэх мэт янз бүрээр өөрчилж байна. Үүнийг та судлаач хүний хувьд хэрхэн дүгнэдэг вэ?
-Дээл олон зууныг дамжин ирэхдээ, хэлбэр дүрсээ алдаагүй, ямар зарчимтай эсгэж, оёж байсан нь тэр хэвээрээ өвлөгдсөн гэж судлаачид үздэг. Харин янз бүрийн зах хэрэглэж байсан юм билээ. Нэг үе мөөрөлжин захыг манай үндэснийх, дөрвөлжин захыг гадных хэмээн туйлширч байсан. Судлаад үзэхэд, нийт 200 гаруй нэр төрлийн захтай дээл өмсч байсан байна. XVII зуунаас өнөөг хүртэл дөрвөлжин захыг хэрэглэж байна. Энэ нь онцлогтой. Бид хүзүүний ороолт хэрэглэдэггүй байсан учир хүзүү хоолойгоо дааруулахгүй, малгайны хувьд шилэн хүзүүгээр салхи сийгэхээс хамгаалж шилэвч хэрэглэж байсан. Мөөрөлжин захны хувьд дотуур нь тусгай хоолойвчин зах хэрэглэж байсан юм билээ.
Өндөр гэгээн Занабазар мөөрөлжин захыг лам дээлэндээ авч үлдсэн гэж үздэг. Монголчууд буруу, зөв дарсан энгэртэй дээл хийж өмсч байсан. Манайхан зөв дарсан энгэрээ, казахуудын хувьд буруу дарсан энгэрийг нь авч үлдсэн юм билээ. Япон, Солонгос, Хятадад манай ташуу захыг хэлбэр, хэмжээг нь өөрчлөн авсан байдаг.скачать dle 12.0
29 Сэтгэгдэл

29 сэтгэгдэл

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